Short Round Graduation
Step by step guide on how to cut a short round graduation, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
An excellent grounding technique from Stacey Broughton, full of discipline and control and producing clever soft curves worthy of any salon floor. The result is a pixie haircut with a sleek, round graduation with a square take in the front, creating a heavy, exotic, seductive frame with even axial swing through the top.
Before: Mary before the cut.
Step 1: Begin with a vertical section from crown to nape. Then take a horizontal section above both the curvature of the head and the occipital bone. This section will be your guide.
Please note that although the section is taken above the curve of the head, the section will lie on the curve once cut.
Step 2: Starting in the centre back, elevate the section and over-direct downwards and cut a square line parallel to the head shape.
Step 3: Using the previous section as a guide, work this line through to the front hairline.
Step 4: Repeat this process on the second side. This forms the internal guide from back to front.
Step 5: Return to the centre-back. Using your top section as a guide, work a graduated shape from long to short into the nape area. Work initially with a vertical section.
Step 6: As you continue forward, slightly pivot the sections towards the ear. Please note that Stacey leaves out his perimeter in front of the ear.
Step 7: Repeat this process on the second side.
Step 8: Return to the first side, then refine and cross-check around the ear on both sides.
Step 9: Next, work the band above up to the horseshoe section. Using your previous section as a guide, take parallel sections and elevate and over-direct down onto the previous section in order to build the graduation without a weight line. This creates an even and consistent graduation.
Please note that graduation can be used in different ways, depending on bone structure and shape choice. With this cut Stacey has chosen a very sleek shape throughout, building weight towards the front hairline in order to support his heavy fringe.
Step 10: Repeat this process on the second side.
Continue ...
Subscribe to view the training video!