Short Graduated Bob
Step by step guide on how to cut a short graduated bob, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
The short graduated bob is an absolute alltime salon great that teaches the need for balance and consistency in graduation. This cut uses a soft blend of rounded graduation, contrasted with triangles of variable length and even weight running throughout the perimeter to maximize head shape and movement.
Before: Red, before the cut.
Step 1: The sectioning for the short graduated bob works with a classic horse shoe section, running all the way around to the back.
Step 2: This section works in a curve all the way through the back. Be aware of the hair growth patterns.
Step 3: Take a diagonal section in the front hairline and point cut a line below the cheek bone that runs to the mid-ear, using your comb as a guide.
Step 4: Then check this section in your fingers, using a pointing technique to refine. Notice Stacey's longest point is in the front of the section, framing the face.
Step 5: Then take a parallel section and comb it over the initial section. Then take away the small area behind the ear. Cut this section on the skin using the underneath as a guide.
Step 6: Next, elevate this second section to refine, placing a fraction of graduation throughout the outline.
Step 7: Continue with parallel diagonal sections, removing the hair around the ear from each section. This will ensure sufficient weight behind the ear.
Step 8: Repeat this process on the second side.
Step 9: Now, re-section the second side area and continue into the nape, using the front as a guide and a small amount of elevation.
Notice how Stacey angles his fingers to create a tighter graduated shape. It is important that the fingers do not run flat to the head but angle towards the nape to maximize length over the ear and to enhance head shape through the nape.
Step 10: Continue with parallel sections to the centre-back.
Continue ...
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