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Long Graduation - How To (2)

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long graduation - step 4 Step 4
Now divide the hair down the centre back, finding the natural centre using the top of the spine as a guide. Then divide the section to behind the ear to separate the back section.
long graduation - step 5 Step 5
Start by taking a curved horizontal line in the nape area. Note: this section will depend on quality and density of hair texture. Comb this section as close to the shoulders or the back as possible with very little tension and cut the hair using the comb as a guide. It is important to understand your first line is your guideline for the rest of the outline shape.
 
long graduation - step 6 Step 6
Assess the shape before you continue (straightness). Take subsequent sections parallel to the crown and cut in the same manner.
Note the client’s body position and tension of hair.
 
long graduation - step 7 Step 7
At this stage continue through into the temple area. Comb the hair back and over the shoulders and continue with the square line through the back area.
Note: Again this area is the guide through the side section - it is important to establish a clean guide with the correct amount of weight in the outline. The thickness of this section will vary according to the hair quality.
 
long graduation - step 8 Step 8
Once this outline has been established move onto the front outline shape. Take a section from the centre down to the back of the ear on a diagonal line. This mirrors the outline shape.
long graduation - step 9 Step 9
Now assess the outline before cutting.
long graduation - step 10 Step 10
Next comb the hair allowing for its natural fall. Overdirection is not required as the outline will be established in a free manner. Hold the hair in place with fingers and cut the angle free-hand from long to short.
long graduation - step 11 Step 11
Now repeat this on the second side. By establishing the outline in both sides an accurate balance is achieved.

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