Q: Hi there. I am also a licensed cosmetologist. I have had a few clients inquiring about a rod to roller perm. I am trying to
figure out the technique for it. If you can help at all, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you very much for time.
A: In many salons, this technique is referred to as a “Transfer Perm”. While it may sound very complicated, the process is actually
simple, just a little more time consuming than a traditional perm service.
The hair is wrapped on perm rods small enough to give a broken down wave pattern and the waving
solution is applied and processed according to the perm formula used. After the waving lotion is rinsed from the hair, carefully unwind
the hair from the perm rods and rewrap it on rollers that are the size of the curl you desire for the finished style.
As a rule of thumb, use one roller for every two rods you remove. The rods should be sufficiently
small that the 2:1 ratio in the transfer from rod to roller should not overload the roller. Once the hair has been rewrapped on the
rollers, apply the neutralizer to the hair and process that stage as directed according to the perm formula you use.
After the neutralizer has been processed, you should rinse the hair as directed. Be careful since
most rollers don’t hold as securely as perm rods during rinsing. This means using a low-pressure flow of water over the rollers and
potentially a longer rinsing time. In addition, many stylists prefer to follow the pat-dry stage with air-drying under a hooded dryer
using low or no heat. Doing this give the long lasting benefits of a wet-set to the finished style (and since oxygen from the air helps
to further ensure complete neutralization of the perm it can grant longer lasting results) but is not necessary.
It should be specifically stated that using this perming technique is not appropriate for those
individuals who have over-stressed, fragile or damaged hair. When the hair is in the transfer stage it will be at its most vulnerable
and must be treated with extreme care. A stylist who is contemplating using this technique on any client must use his or her best
judgement and should always err on the side of caution.
