Q: Please, explain to me how the cutting on the crown of my head can be layered as I have 2 crowns where the hair grows in
circles and when badly cut it flattens out and I look bald. I remember an excellent hairdresser explaining to the girl who was about to
perm my hair how to put the rollers so the crown didnít flatten. I no longer can afford those haircuts & most hairdressers Iíve been to
in years know zero about cutting or handling that problem. They say they do, but obviously donít. Maybe I could clue them in. I will be super grateful if you can help. Thanks.
A: First of all, it is extremely difficult to make an assessment of your hairís needs based on a simple statement. That being said,
there are general rules that apply to most cases of growth patterns found on the scalp.
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In the case of layering the hair when there are growth patterns present (such as with the imminently
problematic double-crown) you have to make certain of two things which relate to one another. First, you want to make sure that the
layers over the growth pattern are of sufficient length to allow the hair to bend back in the direction you desire. How long this length
needs to be depends on the texture of the hair (coarse to fine), and its wave pattern (straight, wavy or curly). You should encourage
your stylist to always err on the side of leaving the hair too long.
Second, the hair in any growth pattern should be held with no tension when being cut. This relates
to the previous statement by the fact that cutting the hair with tension can result in the hair being too short when it is released, particularly if the hair is wavy or curly.
In addition, using certain hair products can make a big difference in many cases. If your
double-crown means that your hair lies flat to the scalp in that area, try using a root-lift spray or strong hold styling gel to help
the hair stand out and add volume in that area. Using the product in combination with your hair dryer and holding the hair out from the
scalp while you dry the scalp area of the hair will help create the lift effect.
Finally, although you have tried already to find a stylist who is capable of dealing effectively
with your double-crown, keep looking. Severe growth patterns are uncommon, and the average stylist may not encounter someone with such
a problem in many years of practice. Be sure to interview the stylists beforehand and ask about other clients who may have similar
problems to yours. Ask to see photos of before and after if possible, or for references.