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War of the Styles

Vintage American Hairstyles

The last Monday of May marks a very important holiday in the United States called Memorial Day. Once known as Decoration Day, it is a day of remembrance for those who have died in our nation's service. It was believed to have been started in Waterloo, NY in the mid 1800s. Originally only soldiers who perished in the Civil War were recognized, which many of the southern states opposed and celebrated their own version of Memorial Day. Following World War I, soldiers from any war were recognized which helped this special day gain popularity across the country. It is important, no matter what our view on war, that this is a day of reconciliation, a day to put aside our individual beliefs and honor those who have given their lives to protect our country. So while we listen to 'Taps' and eat hot dogs this weekend, let's look back through the various American wars and the hairstyles that were popular during those times.
 
We will start with the Native Americans. Though there was never an official war, I think that we can all agree that there was, and still is, an extreme battle. The Indians that are thought of immediately are wearing long braids on either side of the head with feathers tucked neatly in them, this is indicative of the Plains Indians. The East Coast Indians kept their heads shaved except for a ridge of hair around the crown of their heads. In the southern part of the country, including the Incas, the Indians wore black headbands over relatively short and often bobbed hair. Another group of Indians, the Aztecs, wore braids with brightly colored cloth woven in and then wrapped those plaits around their heads. And finally, the Mayan nobility wore ornate headdresses.
 
America began with a bang! The American Revolution occurred from 1775-1783 and saw many of the same styles as the French and English during the same period, which makes sense seeing how most of the American women from that period had recently "immigrated" from there. There were a group of women, generally those that were recent transplants with money, who wore large wigs that were tall, curly and powdered with feathers, bows, garlands, and in some cases birds in birdcages! There was another group of women who were at home on the range working in the home and fields that wore long flowing styles which was much more practical. Pigs don't care about wigs!
 
The next 65 years in American history brought about two more wars. The first was the War of 1812 which took place in 1935, just kidding, 1812-1815. The popular hairstyles of the time were soft and romantic characterized by hair that was pulled back and put up in a bun or twist with curls in the front ranging from wisps to full ringlets. The war to follow, the Mexican-American War from 1846-1848 was on the cusp of the Victorian era. Hairstyles were similar to those of the War of 1812 but with embellishments including flowers, jewels, and feathers for evening affairs and bonnets for daytime wear.
 
Frankly my darling, I don't give a ... .Next is the 'Gone With the Wind' war otherwise known as the Civil War from 1861-1865. The desired look of the time was a round face so hairstyles were made to accentuate that appearance. The crown of the hair was very flat and generally parted in the middle with wider sides. The back was secured tightly in a bun or roll at the nape of the neck. There was a more relaxed look for balls, think of Ms. Scarlett in her drapery gown. Years after Tara was rebuilt the nation was once again thrust into war. The Spanish-American War in 1898 saw high hair pulled back from the forehead. Bonnets were on their way out and a full bouffant style finished off with a twist of bun on top of the head was desired.
 
Sixteen years later America joined the world in World War I from 1914-1919. This battle ushered in the roaring twenties where short and bobbed hair saw its first taste of popularity. Believe it or not, the pope actually had a role in this style by declaring that it was not improper for women to have short hair! Twenty years passed before World War II from 1939-1945. This was the era of the pin-up girl and total glam. Styles were very feminine and romantic with soft curls falling on the shoulders, long and natural looks. Too bad these were only popular in the evening for special events. Shampoo and styling products were very hard to come by so they needed to be rationed along with many other items. For everyday looks and work in the factories, ladies usually wore a roll of hair around the nape of the neck and covered with a headscarf tied in the front. Picture Rosie the Riveter on the cover of the Post. Plastic rollers and styling lotion were a must for hairstyles during that time.
 
Just a few years after Rosie was tying on her headscarf, June Cleaver was vacuuming in heels with a perfect strand of pearls gracing her neck. During the Korean War from 1950-1953 the style of the times was that of the implied "domestic goddess". Glamour was huge and hair was teased, sculpted, sprayed, and permed. Women began visiting the salon for a weekly shampoo and set, all in the attempt to have the perfect helmet of hair. From rock hard hair to long, free and natural hair during the Vietnam War from 1960-1975, hair changed along with the country. This was the time of Charlie's Angels and popular hairstyles followed popular culture. Hair was free falling with curls and soft parts with long fringes. Very few products were used in order to get the perfect Farrah hair flip.
 
More recently America engaged in the Persian Gulf War from 1990-1991. This was the time of "Friends", I will give you three guesses as to the predominant style and the first two guesses don't count! That is right, the "Rachel" cut could be seen everywhere from the school to the board room to the red carpet. Women were racing to their stylists to get those long sleek layers for the controlled grown out look. While they were there, they also went blonde; blonde highlights, dark blonde, light blonds-anything blonde. For those who were follicly challenged, they had another star to copy with a short choppy style and messed up hair a la Meg Ryan. And that brings us to present day with the Invasion of Iraq which started officially in 2003. All one need do to see the popular styles of today is look in the mirror or turn on the TV!
 
As we celebrate Memorial Day this year, we ask that you all, whether American or not, stop and have a moment of remembrance for those that have passed fighting for their countries. Please don't forget those that are still fighting and trying to keep the world safe for our children and their children in the future. The world and country will continue to change and wars will come and go just as popular styles will come and go. But the sun will rise the next morning, even if we all go green with spiked Mohawks!
 
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